Castel Gandolfo: 400 years of papal care for the people and the land

By Antonella Palermo

In Castel Gandolfo, the night of 5 September was marked by celebrations as residents gathered for the solemn Eucharistic celebration in honour of the town’s patron Saint Sebastian. Presided over by Monsignor Angelo Pennazza, Episcopal Vicar and parish priest of Saint Joseph’s in Pavona, the liturgy concluded with a procession carrying the saint’s relics.

On the afternoon of 6 September, a historical procession, with 17th-century costumes and around thirty participants in period dress, will recreate the atmosphere of four centuries ago, when Pope Urban VIII’s arrival by carriage marked the inauguration of the papal summer residence. The special celebration was organised jointly by the municipality, the Pontifical Parish and local historian Luciano Mariani to mark this particular anniversary.

Father Tadeusz Rozmus, parish priest of Saint Thomas of Villanova, the church next to Palazzo Barberini, tells Vatican News about the history of these places, which have been dear to so many pontiffs. From the church terrace, one can admire the same spectacular view: Monte Cavo, a dormant volcanic cone that has been inactive for 10,000 years. Rising to almost 1,000 metres (about 3,281 feet), it is the second-highest mountain in the Alban Hills, within the Regional Park of the Castelli Romani, and overlooks the magnificent Lake Albano.

From Urban VIII’s stay to Alexander VII’s sailing boat

In 1596, during the pontificate of Pope Clement VIII, the Apostolic Camera seized the Savelli family’s fief and castle, after they had accumulated a substantial debt. At the request of Urban VIII, the property was incorporated and renovated between 1624 and 1626 according to designs by Carlo Maderno, becoming the historic summer residence of many Popes.

Tradition holds that on 10 October 1626, cannon fire was heard in Rome at dawn, while a papal procession of carriages accompanied the Pope as he entered Castel Gandolfo. A place of great natural beauty, which had already attracted Roman emperors, became a pontifical residence where one could breathe clean air and escape the oppressive summer heat of the Eternal City.

Pope Alexander VII developed an extraordinary affection for these lands, Father Rozmus recalls. “He brought so much new life here. He built the Church of Saint Thomas of Villanova, which he himself consecrated in 1661, on the site of a pre-existing small church dedicated to Saint Nicholas. At the time, the Augustinians were responsible for pastoral ministry, and later the Salesians came. It is also said that he was the first to bring here what was known as a brigantine, a two-masted sailing vessel, and he sailed on the lake aboard it.”

The parish priest further explains that Pope Alexander VII was responsible for a profound transformation of the area. Among other things, he involved Gian Lorenzo Bernini in enhancing the artistic splendour of the works both inside and outside the residence.

The parish priest of Saint Thomas of Villanova looks out over Lake Albano

Lake Albano and the woodland paths: Restoring body and spirit

Beech, chestnut and oak forests cover the mountain, while picturesque paths wind their way around the lake. The Popes themselves walked these trails, and Father Rozmus often goes hiking there as well.

“Movement, they say, is the best medicine and having such a beautiful lake without taking a few good swims would be a shame! We should make positive use of the beauty of nature,” he stresses.

Thus, at the beginning of the Season of Creation—a five-week period leading up to the feast of Saint Francis of Assisi that encourages concrete actions to care for our common home—the parish priest recalls some anecdotes connected with this little paradise. He speaks of how he crosses the waters, which reach depths of 200 metres (656 feet), from one shore to the other, in order to restore both body and spirit.

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After all, this is what the many tourists who arrive here are seeking. “So many people, including non-believers, are happy to stop in the church. It is a place of refreshment. We are open to everyone. They may be far from the faith, but they stop gladly and perhaps even pray,” Father Rozmus says.

Among them are thousands of motorcyclists, who also share his passion for two wheels. The Polish priest has travelled all across Europe on his motorcycle, and, he confides, one of his fondest memories is the Jubilee pilgrimage organised for motorcyclists during the last Holy Year.

The Popes’ bond with the local community

The local community has been deeply shaped by the presence of the Popes in Castel Gandolfo. Beyond the pride expressed by some residents in what they regard as a genuine privilege, over time they have developed a special affection and a desire to strengthen a sense of fraternity and mutual closeness.

They learned this in particular from specific pontiffs. Some, for example, recall how Pope John XXIII would enter people’s homes, lift the lids of their cooking pots and go into the kitchen to see whether they needed help and whether there was enough food for the entire family. He was always ready to offer personal assistance.

Between one horseback ride and another—a pastime associated with Popes such as Urban VIII, Clement XIV and Leo XIV—the practice of listening to residents and pilgrims and meeting people has been an important channel for many Successors of Peter.

Father Rozmus explainst that “when the Popes began coming here, they were not thinking only of themselves. They were also thinking about the local people, whose numbers gradually increased as the infrastructure around the area developed,” with a growing influx of families and the construction of a large number of new homes.

The papal residence overlooking Piazza della Libertà in Castel Gandolfo

The Popes’ promotion of the area

“Pope Paul VI did a great deal for this area, and Pope John Paul II did just as much,” Father Rozmus adds.

Other pontiffs preferred not to move to Castel Gandolfo; Pope Innocent X was among them. Pope Francis, too, remained essentially at Santa Marta. Yet his absence from the Pontifical Villas did not mean a lack of concern for the environmental heritage—quite the contrary. It was through his initiative that the Laudato Si’ Village was created and officially inaugurated one year ago. Its central focus is education in integral ecology and fraternity.

The estate covers 55 hectares and now stands on what was once the site of the ancient villa of Domitian, who originally chose the location for its unique microclimate. It is a marvel whose upkeep is entrusted to gardeners and workers who preserve its distinctive appearance. This stands in stark contrast to the state of neglect in which the area remained for more than sixty years following the fall of the Papal States and the unification of Italy. After that historic moment, there was a pause in papal presence for about 30 years until Pope Pius X returned to Castel Gandolfo.

Welcoming those displaced by war

Today, the site is a constantly active hub, where Pope Leo—much loved for his approach to people—continues to follow Vatican affairs while also making time for rest and sport. It is a place open to diplomatic visits and private audiences, from which the Pope recites the Sunday Angelus and presides over liturgies. 

“The arrival of Pope Leo,” Father Rozmus emphasises, “brings a beauty that I would call deeply human, very close to the people and very approachable.”

The parish priest offers a moving reminder of another moment in the site’s history: during the Second World War, in 1944, Pope Pius XII opened the doors of the Vatican Gardens to provide shelter for people displaced by the war.

“We are talking about 12,000 people. In the Apostolic Palace, in the Pope’s very room, sources say that 36 children were born, including twins. The mother,” Father Rozmus concludes, “wanted to express her appreciation for the hospitality and her gratitude to the Pope, so she named them Eugenio Pio and Pio Eugenio, precisely in honour of the Bishop of Rome.”